I
have a story. It's a little old at this point; it's from a series of
posts I wrote ages ago, before my vacances in October, and didn't manage to post
because my internet situation is and has been ridiculous. But here it
is anyway.
I
still believe that no single seemingly mundane thing will make an
American hate life in another country more or faster than doing
laundry. And if I thought that the whole process seemed unnecessarily
strange and confusing in Ireland, well, now it's a new learning curve
and it's in a different language!
I
don't really like doing laundry anyway. In the winter, sometimes if I
can time it right, I like having warm sheets and/or warm pajamas at
night. And sometimes I get into the domesticity zone and feel all
“Look at me, I'm a grown-up!”, washing my own clothes and folding
them nicely. But that's mostly only when I'm either really bored or
avoiding doing something else that's probably more important. Mostly, I don't like laundry. It's
time-consuming and expensive and involves carrying stuff up and down
stairs multiple times.
Anyway.
You may recall that I was befuddled by the detergent aisle in
Ireland; now imagine that same nightmare with everything in French,
when I didn't even understand it in English. I stood there reading
packages just long enough to find something that specifically said it
was safe for both whites and colors, and decided that would have to
do. Now recall that I live in a school building, where there's not
even a kitchen, let alone a washer and dryer as far as I'm aware. So
off to the laundromat I go. Fortunately, there's one just a few
blocks away, in the neighborhood where my bank and the bakery I
usually go to are. It may or may not be the best or the cheapest in
town, but I don't really care to lug my dirty clothes all over the
city to find out.
I
decided that rather than dragging my laundry bag around town, it
would be less awkward to stuff all my clothes into my backpacking
pack. I'm not actually sure that's true, but at least it's easy to
carry. (I have since observed that French people all carry their
clothes to the laundromat in a big canvas shopping bag, so perhaps
it's time to invest in one of those. Then again, French people also
bring their things to the laundromat, start the washing machine, and
then leave and come back later to dry/collect their clothes. The
American in me is just not comfortable with leaving my things
unattended in a public place like that, even if it is just dirty clothes in a running
washer.)
The
first time I went, there was no one else there, which made me really
glad, because not only did I not have to interact with anyone, there
was no one there to see me staring at the instruction signs for
minutes trying to figure out what I was supposed to do and in what
order. Even more fortunately, it turned out to be less confusing than
I anticipated, although I still don't understand this whole thing
where different settings are associated with specific temperatures.
In America, the dial says hot, warm, and cold. No numbers. I wouldn't
know what temperature I want even if the Celsius scale made sense to
me.
Also,
my detergent tablets (more expensive than a box of washing powder but also much simpler for the girl who has never used detergent in powder form before) turned out to be incredibly fragile and I
crumbled half of one all over the top of the washer trying to get it
out of its wrapper. That would have been a lot less embarrassing had
the owner not come in to do some cleaning while I was sitting there
waiting, and had it not been REALLY obvious, since I was the only
person there, that I was responsible for that particular mess.
I
guess now that I'm telling it, it doesn't really sound as stressful
as it seemed, the first time. It's just frustrating how something
that seems so basic can become so complicated in a different place
(Next up: buying a medicated face wash. HAHAHA... no.). And then I
was thinking about how when I was in Belize, I COULD have lugged my
dirty, smelly archaeology clothes into town to find a laundromat and
let everyone stare at the gringa whose man-pants were getting the
washing machine full of mud, but I also had other options. I could
pay a small fortune to the proprietor of the lodge where we were
staying to have my laundry done by some unfortunate maid and returned
to me the next day... or I could grab a buddy with a tin of camping
soap and head for the river. I've come to think that “developed”
countries are overdeveloped in many ways, including that we've
forgotten how to do things simply and that sometimes the simple (not
necessarily the easy) solution is the most
satisfying.
Unfortunately,
it would probably not be socially acceptable to hand-scrub my jeans
in the Penfeld. And here, it's a much longer walk to the river than
to the laundromat.
But
that brings me to the part where things really did get frustrating,
and where I had some of the same problem when I washed in the river
in Belize: how to dry wet clothes without a dryer, in a humid place.
Dryers are not really a thing in Europe. They exist, but
they're not necessarily a standard part of the clothes-washing
process and not everyone has one even if they do have a washer.
Laundromats have them, but they're expensive to use, and you don't
pay for a full cycle. You pay for blocks of a few minutes at a time
(at my laundromat, fifty cents for six minutes). I thought, okay,
I'll dry my stuff a little bit, just enough so it won't be dripping
in my backpack, and then I'll take it home and hang it up like the
French do.
Except
this is Brittany, and it was October, and everything is cold and damp
all the time, even if it's a sunny day. And the heat wasn't on in my
building yet at the time, and I have to hang things inside because of where I
live. Do you know how long it takes wet clothes to air-dry in this
environment? A long-ass time. Meanwhile, my room, as I may have
mentioned once or twice, is very small, and there is very little in
it that is sturdy enough to support a loaded clothesline that is also
high enough off the ground for that clothesline to be practical.
Space becomes very limited once there's a mostly waist-high
clothesline running in multiple directions and more clothes are
draped over every available surface. Plus, it can create whole new
problems: wrapping part of the clothesline around the toaster oven
door handle turned out to be a bad idea when the chair (to which the
clothesline was also attached) shifted, which pulled the door open,
which knocked over a [fortunately empty] olive oil bottle, which of
course broke. No, “broke” does not do the situation justice; it
shattered. I've never heard such a noise as breaking glass echoing on
tile, and I had no idea just how much glass was in a
less-than-1-liter bottle. And I couldn't get a broom and clean it up,
because I couldn't maneuver through the forest of damp clothes, so I
just had to wear shoes all the time until everything was dry enough
to put away. During which time I also could not use the sink very
effectively, because it was blocked by hanging clothes, or my desk,
because the chair was being used as both a clothesline anchor point
(which required it to be in the middle of the room) and a drying
rack.
The
moral of the story is that air-drying is all well and good if you
have more than one room in which to live, or at least a room big
enough to hold a clothesline out of the way of your normal
activities. And if it's warm enough and dry enough in that room for
things to actually dry—the first time I did laundry, when I had the
clothes-forest and no heat, most of it hung for over two days and was
still damp when the heat finally came on and dried it out at last.
I
have a slightly better clothesline strategy now, and the heater is a
big help. But I admit I also run the dryer a little longer than I did
that first day. I decided that even if humidity wasn't a bitch, I
don't have the space to go around rejecting modern conveniences
entirely just because I can.
Anyway,
laundry sucks, and I want to go back to the jungle. The end.
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